Wheeler Peak

When I was a young lad, me and my best friend Don would go fishing at swampy Simas Lake. The lake was inhabited by carp and we would easily catch carp by the bucket load. However, carp is such a singularly unappealing fish so we just tossed them up on the bank where they would flop around in bug-eyed panic, just trying to breathe. I was reminded of the carp fishing because as Dollie and I hiked above 11,000 feet of altitude on Wheeler Peak, I also flopped around on the ground and gasped for breath just like a landed carp. Having obtained some insight into the carp's experience, I vowed never to be mean to another carp as long as I live.

Thar she (Wheeler Peak) blows!

At Great Basin National Park, we had been putting off the hike to Wheeler Peak summit. Even though we were in the desert, each day of our stay brought in rain showers and lightning. A poncho can ward off rain, but there is no outerwear stout enough to repel 300 kiloamperes of electrical current so we waited, ever hopeful that the weather would clear sufficiently enough for a safe hike. The weather forecast for our last day at the park called for a sunny day so a trek to the summit would be the coda and grand finale of our Great Basin tap dance.

Trail through the aspen

Just past dawn we started the hike by walking on a trail through an aspen forest. In our local forests, Douglas fir grows everywhere like the world's tallest weed. We just don't see aspen and they seem sort of alien to us Oregonians with their twisted white trunks and round leaves quaking in the slightest breeze. The uniqueness of the trees totally distracted us from noticing we were walking uphill at about 10,000 feet of elevation.

Rock garden

In a grassy meadow, we parted ways with the familiar Stella Lake Trail and veered up the bald slopes of Bald Peak, Wheeler Peak's immediate neighbor. Short, round, and balder than ruggedly handsome Wheeler Peak, Bald Peak must feel like my brother does when he stands next to me. Anyway, it was back and forth through alpine meadows and rock gardens until we hit the saddle between the two mountains. And then the "fun" started.

Dollie begins to hate me

Shortly after the saddle, we climbed past tree line and entered a world of rock. A very steep world of rock, I might add. Up, up, up, the trail went, as merciless as Torquemada in a bad mood. Somewhere on the climb, we rose over the 11,000 foot mark and legs soon went rubbery and hikers began fish flopping due to the altitude.

Wind shelter

There were no trees here, but there were mats of tundra wedged between the rocks. Life is incredibly miniature at high elevation, and I noticed purple flowers in bloom, each the size of a dull pencil point. Amazingly, equally small beetles were crawling in and around the flowers! Because there were no trees, the view was tremendous as we trudged on upwards.

Incoming storm

We could see Spring Valley to the west, with wind farms dotting the valley floor. To the east lay dusty Snake Valley, ringed by a wall of confusion; that is to say, the Confusion Range bordered the northeast edge of the valley. Unfortunately, we could also see an ominous wall of clouds blowing in from the southwest. A storm was on its way.

We decided not to risk the lightning

Knowing when to stop hiking is a large part of hiking safely. Many hikers get into trouble with an affliction known as "peak fever", a condition that occurs when hikers must hike to the summit in sight, even though common sense says not to. We were talking to a younger hiker in his mid-20's about the high probability of lightning and he blithely shrugged his shoulders and said "If I get electrocuted, so will everybody else", and away he went towards the top.

Thunderclouds form over Bald Peak

Resting at 11,800 feet in a stone windbreak just below the final push, we dithered about whether to continue. We were so close, only 1,200 feet of climbing in about 0.7 mile of trail and the mountain was right there, tantalizingly close. As we dithered, the clouds began to embrace the peak and there was less and less blue sky and more tall towering clouds formed over the Snake Range. Boom! A nearby clap of thunder cinched the deal and we dithered no more, heading back down the mountain to safer environs. Several other parties likewise headed down, with (advanced) age being the common factor.

Snake Valley gets swallowed up by the storm

Leaving Wheeler Peak to the younger and foolhardier set, we hiked back to the trailhead under dark clouds as lightning flashed in the next valley over. The storm basically grazed Wheeler Peek and followed us instead. Snake Valley disappeared in the mist as we dropped into the aspen again. No regrets however, we got in a nice hike with fantastic scenery and carp will no longer have to fear my presence.

Yup, we were right up there

For more pictures of this hike, please visit the Flickr album

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Ward Charcoal Ovens

The basic plan for this day during our stay at Great Basin National Park was to drive around and see stuff. Rather vague and ill-defined to be sure, but that's what we do. One of the many travel brochures purloined from an Ely motel mentioned Nevada ghost towns, one of which was Osceola. We had hiked already on the Osceola Ditch Trail, the historical site of a wooden flume that transported water from Mill Creek to Osceola so with a shrug of our shoulders and a bemused "Why not?" we hopped in the car and headed towards the small dot on the map that was Osceola.

A relic from the Osceola of yore

"Osceola" in Native American tongue probably means "long dusty road to nowhere". The rough and rutted dirt road started in the Snake Valley and ended in the Spring Valley, with the formidable Snake Range traverse testing our shock absorbers between the two valleys. Currently, Osceola is a small smattering of modern day abodes where the old town used to be and we did see several ruins from days gone by. The most tangible sign of the former town was the forlorn cemetery on top of a hill, other than that I don't think much else remains or else the remains are somewhere other than where we were.

The fans go marching two by two...

Anway, after arriving at Spring Valley, we crossed the broad valley with its parade formation of wind turbines permanently marching in a halftime show. From there, it was up and over the Schell Creek Range and down into Steptoe Valley. Up and down, up and down, that's what driving in the Great Basin is like. In Steptoe Valley, the next object of our affections was Ward Charcoal Ovens State Park.

Proof extraterrestrials have landed

Back in the day, silver was mined in these hills and the ore needed to be smelted. This required the use of copious quantities of charcoal. So, the ovens were built, looking all the world like giant beehives, and the mountains were soon stripped of trees in order to feed the ovens. Six of these odd looking ovens are preserved in a remote state park where we were the only visitors that particular morning.

Willow Creek drainage

We poked our heads into the alien looking ovens and then began hiking on a trail system in the park's Willow Creek drainage. Along the way were the ruins of several kilns, used back then to bake limestone to make mortar to make the ovens. Other than seeing a horned lizard and several rabbits, our walk was fairly uneventful until we reached a trail junction with a sign pointing the way to "Rocky Point".

View from Rocky Point

The "hike" was about 25 percent hike and about 75 percent scramble up some rocky faces marked with holes made by the ancient peoples that once peopled the area. This looked and felt like rattlesnake country so by wifely edict, I got to hike in front. I'm glad to report neither hikers nor rattlesnakes were harmed on this venture and we soon were atop the rocky point, enjoying the view of the vast Nevada outback and the nearby Egan Range.  Down below and looking more out of place than ever were the pointy headed ovens. An intersection of several dusty roads marked the location of  the nearby Willow Creek Ranch resort.

Singing "The Wind Beneath my Wings"

Our next destination was some 50 or so miles away: Cave Lake State Park. I'm sure it has some really interesting caves and lakes but we were going there with only one purpose in mind: showers! It wasn't quite a medical condition yet, but we had gone 3 days already without a shower other than rain showers and they don't count.

Cave Lake

Parking our car at surprisingly lush Steptoe Creek, we climbed up to a waterfall we had espied from the roadway. Once we got close enough for a good look, the natural wonder turned out to be a creek disappointingly pouring out of a man-made culvert underneath another roadway. Scrambling up a steep slope that turned out to be the Cave Lake dam, a nice overlook of the lake was enjoyed, but the showers at the lake's campground were enjoyed even more.

A small piece of the Grey Cliffs

Upon our return to Great Basin National Park, we swung by the Grey Cliffs which were just that. A great wall of rock rising above Pole Creek, the Grey Cliffs do impress visitors. While Dollie waited in the car, I bushwhacked through a dense thicket of willows to a pile of Volkswagen-sized boulders at the base of the cliff. It was a struggle to scramble up the pile of rocks but the reward was a nice up-close view of the cliffs. A large cave was present nearby with a sign forbidding visitors from entering as this particular cave had a large breeding population of bats inside.

I was told not to post this in Facebook
She didn't say anything about my blog!

So, it was back to camp and yet another chilly night but we slept well, fully sated by the day's adventures...plus we were squeaky clean! For more pictures of the sights, please visit the Flickr album.

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Rock Glacier Trail

Rock. Glacier. Two words that describe two of my favorite things. Because of these two words, my attention immediately gravitated to the Rock Glacier Trail when I perused the Great Basin National Park guide. Glaciers are ponderous and slow moving, which can also describe me now that I sadly think of it. But I can't carve chunks out of mountains like a glacier can, though.  Rocks are hard and unyielding as a wife and and speaking of which, Dollie came along with me on a loop hike that explored a stand of bristlecone pines, a pair of alpine lakes, and a glacial cirque full of rocks.  

Blessed be the shade

At the outset, the Bristlecone Trail climbed steadily through a beautifully shaded forest comprised of limber pine and Englemann spruce. We immediately began huffing and puffing which probably had more to do with hiking at 10,000 feet and very little to do with the grade of the trail. Literally, we were getting high on our hike (thanks Jim, for that remark!).

Older than John McCain, even!

After a mile or so, the trees thinned out and the trail took us into a stand of bristlecone pines, the living trees burnished orange with limbs all twisted into phantasmagorical shapes. The dead trees were likewise twisted but colored a more appropriate cadaver gray. Bristlecone pines are the oldest individual living organism on our planet, older than the Rolling Stones even. Their growth rings are packed so tight that a dead tree is nearly impervious to decay, taking several thousand more years to fully decompose. And here we were, walking among dozens of these arboreal ancients, the total age of all these trees added together being eclipsed only by the total age of the U.S. Senate.

Hiking on the moon

Continuing past the bristlecones, the trail left all trees behind and delivered us into a rocky cirque situated between Jeff Davis Peak and Wheeler Peak. This little world was all rock, with the odd lichen splotch and tundra vegetation stuffed into cracks between the rocks. The rocky bowl had been gouged out of Wheeler Peak's cheek by a glacier eons ago and on the jagged ridge above us, a rock finger was permanently raised upright in geologic disapproval of the awesome power of glaciers.

Lichen on a rock

As we hiked up the moraine, we met a young lady from Arkansas coming down the trail, gimping courtesy of a twisted ankle. A few minutes later, a middle aged man came down, his left arm a bloody mess from a fall he had taken. Between I and his companions, we had enough large bandages in our respective first-aid kits and we patched him up in short order, good enough to get him to an emergency room and stitches. Rock Glacier was a cruel taskmaster, indeed.

Down the moraine we go

However, I am glad to report that no injuries big or small were suffered by the O'Neill party of hikers, all two of us. Without ceremony and at 10,800 feet, the trail ended where we had a nice look at the glacier which was a thin strip of muddy snow and ice and a pitiful reminder of the glory of glaciers past. After spending a few minutes craning our necks up at the rock wall that was the base of Wheeler Peak, we turned around and hiked down the moraine, picking our way carefully as we went.

Teresa Lake

While spectacular, the hike wasn't particularly long so we took an additional loop trail around the alpine lakes named Teresa and Stella. Teresa Lake was more tarn than lake, reposing in a semi-barren bowl below the large rockpile that is Wheeler Peak. We plopped down in the shade (we were back in Tree World after leaving the moraine) and enjoyed lunch while soaking up the spectacular scenery.

Stella Lake

A short walk up and over a thinly forested ridge took us to Stella Lake which had even better views of Wheeler Peak. We entered a meadow as we departed from the lake basin and observed Ma and Pa Turkey taking all the little turkey darlings out for a walk. A short walk through an aspen grove, the trees appearing alien to we Oregonians, returned us back to the trailhead, camp, and the nightly thunderstorm.

For those about to rock

For more pictures of this hike, please visit the Flickr album.

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Great Basin National Park (first day)

The first thing we did upon arrival at Great Basin National Park was to take the drive up to Wheeler Campground. The park is fairly underdeveloped and the one paved road was a windy goat path that snaked its way up about 4,000 feet from the Snake Valley floor. As an aside, I love the idea of a Snake Valley, my squeamish friends not withstanding. 

About one tenth of Wheeler Peak

The road was narrow and it was a slow drive but that's OK because we enjoyed unbelievable views down to the valley and the nearby Confusion Range (another name I approve of). Literally, we were looking down into Utah. As we gained elevation, Wheeler Peak sort of dominated the view. I say "sort of" because clouds covered up most of the mountain but the base of it was still impressive.

A sign we are not in Oregon

We had intended to camp at Wheeler Campground for quicker acclimation to the high elevation, the camp being at 9,800 feet. However, it was frigid cold with intermittent showers so we beat a hasty retreat down to Baker Creek Campground, sited at a more user friendly 7,700 feet. It was interesting to camp with both pinon pines and prickly pear cactus residing in our campsite.

Looking straight up

Lehman Caves is a must-see and we took the guided tour through the caves. Stunningly beautiful, the caves defy description. There were stalactites and stalagmites and the ranger turned off the lights so we could experience pure blackness, a state that occurs also in my ex-wife's heart. But hey, I'll quit talking and let the pictures tell the story:

Another sign we are not in Oregon

We took a short walk on an interpretive nature trail near the visitor center and also did the same on the Osceola Ditch Trail. About 15 miles away lies the ghost town of Osceola and back in the day they built a ditch and flume to transport water from Wheeler Peak to the town. All that remains today of that hydrological project is a faint ditch, old timbers, and a trail with great views of the Snake Valley. 

My kind of forest fire

We set up camp and went to bed early because it was cold, darn it! I thought we had traveled to the hot desert but it sure felt like we were in northern Fennoscandia. We had put in a full day's work and we slept comfortably, buried deep under every blanket and spare item of clothing we had brought with us.

Passing on to the next world

For more pictures, see the following Flickr albums:

Miscellaneous Great Basin pictures

Ooh and aah at Lehman Caves

Nevada road trip

It takes only one forest fire to ruin a vacation.  In our case, we had to contend with "only" four wildfires in southern Oregon and northern California. Our original plan had been to spend a week exploring Lassen Volcanic National Park in northern California. However, as we drove down I-5, smoke from the Beaver Fire and the Day Fire made us feel like two strips of low-fat jerky drying inside a smoker. Visibility was extremely limited, the world was a dull gray color, and the air was thick even by California standards. 

Hello, Eiler Fire...bye, Lassen National Park

As we neared Lassen National Park, a massive plume of smoke rose from the nearby Eiler Fire which had burned about 32,000 acres at the time of our passing. By "our passing" I refer to our driving by the fire and not to our passing, although the two things can be related sometimes. As we neared the fire, the smoke plume was both awesome and fearsome to behold, just like me. The Eiler and Bald Fires were close to the Lassen Park's boundary and we made an impromptu decision to go anywhere else on our vacation and that is how we ended up at Great Basin National Park, near the Nevada-Utah border.

Sand Mountain, from the Loneliest Highway

The Great Basin is a large and vaguely defined geographical area encompassing most of Nevada and large parts of Utah, California, and Oregon. The basin consists of a series of short north-south oriented mountain ranges with very tall mountains. In between the mountain ranges are large valleys containing little or no modern day civilization. There are no river outlets from the Great Basin so what little water there is pools in shallow lakes that evaporate in the summer. Those lakes too large to evaporate completely tend to be salty or alkali.

The road to nowhere

Highway 50 crosses Nevada and is accurately billed as The Loneliest Highway in America. At various places along the highway, one can pick up a "Survival Kit" and get various stops signed off on. Upon completion, the governor of Nevada will then award a hand-signed certificate of survival. It's the closest thing there is to a Croix de Nevada medal of valor! The highway is aptly named, for in the 250 road miles between Fallon and Ely, there are only two other towns on the highway: Austin and Eureka, both historical mining towns. In between Fallon, Austin, Eureka, and Ely are wide expanses of open desert, tall mountains, and all the sagebrush you could ever want to look at. Amazingly, we saw cyclists attempting the ride across Nevada, made even more daunting by the numerous mountain passes that had to be pedaled up and over. The Loneliest Highway follows the Pony Express route and there are a number of historical and archaelogical sites along the way.

Life on the Loneliest Highway in America

So, we were driving in the desert and it rained all day. It was nice to leave the triple-digit smokefest of Oregon and enjoy the cool temps as it never got over 70 degrees during the entire week. In fact, we enjoyed rain showers and lightening displays during our entire stay in the Great Basin. It's like Nevada is the new Oregon.

Petroglyphs at Grimes Point

Just past Fallon, we stopped at the Grimes Point Archaelogical Area which consisted of several paths through some interesting rocks. Turns out, the valley which now contains Fallon used to be a large lake way back when. The Native Americans would camp at the water's edge and for whatever reason, carve petroglyphs into the rocks on the lake's shore. Nowadays, there is no lake of course, but the petroglyphs remain for visitors to admire.

Stokes Castle

Austin is an old mining town and much of the original buildings still exist on Main Street. As we entered the quaint town in the rain, we noticed what looked like a castle on a hill above the town. Well, that seemed interesting, so we took a dirt road to what turned out to be Stokes Castle. Built in the late 1800's by railroad magnate and local luminary Ansom Stokes, the castle was intended to be a summer home and was used for all of one summer. Now there's something you don't see everyday!

How we roll!

The rest of the day was spent driving across the great expanse with tendrils of black rain leaking from clouds and we stopped in Ely (which is pronounced "eely" for some reason). It was quite a departure from our original plan but hey, that's how we roll. 

Austin, Nevada

For more pictures, visit the Flicker albums:

Loneliest Highway

Grimes Point Archaelogical area

Austin, Nevada

Umpqua Spit

I had so much fun backpacking to the end of Umpqua Spit last May, I just had to bring my Friends of the Umpqua friends to the spit. Of course, what was an easy two-day backpack trip became a more challenging day hike due to the round-trip 11.7 miles of beach walking. Also, there'd be no awesome sunset on the day hike version as we'd be back in Roseburg well before day's end. On the plus side, a trip to the coast would be a great way to escape the frying pan sizzle that has been southern Oregon this summer.

Maureen flies across the tidal flat

The day was blessedly overcast as clouds covered up the shore like a misty blanket of coolness; the temperature was in the high 50's and just perfect for hiking. As we (all eight of us, plus two dogs) set out on the beach it was apparent the ocean had been busy sculpting the beach as there were a number of ditches and flumes carved into the beach. We crossed Threemile Creek but it was hard to tell exactly where as there were a number of impromptu ponds and water flows that we had to hike through and around. I kept comparing the relatively rugged beach to the flat-as-a-pool-table shoreline that I had encountered on my spring backpack trip. 

Low tide exposed churned up beaches

There weren't any other hikers out on the beach besides our little group and we were passed by a small contingent of noisy four-wheelers tearing up the dunes. On the hiker-only sections of the Oregon coast, they rope off the dry sand part of the beach and post warning signs for hikers to stay on the wet sand in order to protect the snowy plover. They don't even try with the motorized crowd and I'll take that as a compliment. At any rate, this hike was miles and miles of lonely beach.

Umpqua River on the left, ocean on the right

After about 4 miles, the Umpqua River jetty hove into view and we homed in on it like a mosquito homes in on a hot and sweaty hiker. Once we arrived at the jetty it was time for a lunch and laze atop the rocks. We had a nice overlook of the Umpqua River and across the river in Winchester Bay they were having their annual Dunefest. The Dunefest is probably why we did not see more four-wheelers on this hike.

The sun, it burnsss us, yess!

On the way back the tide started to come in and all the hydrologic sand carving was covered up by the sea. Just like my spring hike here, the beach was now smooth and flat and we were clicking off 18 to 19 minute miles. Including outrlunch time, we averaged 24.5 minutes per mile. We were walking almost as fast as the four-wheelers! Towards the end of the hike, the clouds dissipated, the sun came out, and we returned to blistering hot Roseburg.

Charlie's Angels?

For more pictures of this long beach walk, please visit the Flickr album.

Somebody hacked up a lung, or maybe a spleen

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